While
most textiles are made from plant fibers, silk is a natural protein
fiber produced by silkworms, in the weaving of cocoons. There are two
types of silkworm: wild and cultivated. Fibers of the wild silkworm are
brown, and have a coarse, hard texture. Wild
silkworms feed on scrub oak in India, China and Japan.Silkworms
raised for textile production take extraordinary care, requiring
quiet and sanitary conditions, and feed on cultivated mulberry leaves.
(In fact, raising mulberry trees for silkworms is a significant industry
in Asia.)
Mommé (pronounced
"mummy") refers to silk weight. The higher the mommé,
the heavier the weight. Silk filaments are so fine, there
are literally 1000's of threads per square inch. Often five
to eight filaments are twisted together to make silk threads
thicker and stronger. So, using a weight measure is
far
more accurate than measuring by thread count. |
Natural silks are superior in strength to any plant or animal fiber.
In spite of its delicate appearance, natural silks are strong, yet
lightweight and supple; and are known to be cool in summer, yet
surprisingly comfortable in winter.
Silk is a poor conductor of heat, so garments made of this textile tend
to be warmer than cotton or linen. Natural silk holds heat near the
body, keeping it warm. It is important to note that silk can absorb a
great deal of moisture and still feel comparatively dry. Silk absorbs
perspiration and oil from the skin, but sheds dirt easily and readily;
thus it is considered a "sanitary textile." Silk fabrics do tend to
stain easily.
While silk comes from Asia, primarily China and Japan, France became
famous for its production of finished silk fabrics, which explains
French names such as dupioni and peau de soie for silk
weaves.
Types of Natural Silk Weaves:
Charmeuse silk, known as the silk of
the emperors, is shiny and very smooth, with an elegant luster and
beautiful drape. Not to be confused with polyester satin.
Dupioni silk is a textured silk
weave similar to shantung, recognized by irregular-sized, thick fibers
woven into the base fabric. Fibers that create the texture, are thicker
and heavier than those used in shantung. Dupioni silks do have a
tendency to wrinkle.
Habotai silk is lightweight,
lustrous, and very soft. The Japanese word "habotai" means "soft as
down."
Did you know... Silks with sheen have
triangular fibers that reflect light (like prisms), and the
luster shows whether it is real, or imitation. The sheen of
100% natural silk visually changes depending on the angle of
light. Imitation
polyester
silks shine white, regardless of the angle of light. |
Jacquard silk is constructed of
an intricate weaving method to create complex designs in the fabric.
Jacquard provides a beautiful combination of shiny and matte tone on
tone finishes.
Knit silk, a smooth jersey type silk
perfect for layering and lightweight garments.
Noil Silk is sometimes called raw
silk, because it is untreated and has a flannel-like texture.
Whatever silk products you choose, make sure you choose natural silks
for their legendary comfort, softness, luxury and long lasting
durability.
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